Hello Dark Spot On My Face! Where Did You Come From?

Well, that uninvited dark spot is melasma or sun/age spot. Melasma can feel like an unwelcome visitor showing up at the worst time, sticking around longer than you'd like. Talk about being a Debbie Downer on our skin! Characterized by dark patches on the skin, this condition often appears on areas of the face, such as the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. If you’re in your 30s or beyond, you may have noticed these spots and wondered what they mean for your skin's health and appearance.

In this post, we’ll explore melasma, examine its triggers, discuss management options, and offer ways you can embrace your skin confidently, even with the occasional blemish (which can also create a dark spot).

To listen to this blog click here: https://open.spotify.com/episode/7snsEO3eUCxSQf46aoolaE

What is Melasma?

Melasma is a widespread skin condition that manifests as symmetrical patches of darkened skin, often referred to as age spots. These dark patches occur due to an overproduction of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. Melanocytes are pigment-producing cells in our skin and eyes. When overactivated, they create excess melanin, leading to melasma. While melasma can develop anywhere on the body, it primarily surfaces in sun-exposed areas, such as the face, chest, and arms.

This condition is notably more common in women, particularly those with olive to darker skin tones. A study showed that about 90% of individuals with melasma are women. Hormonal changes, including those during pregnancy or from certain birth control methods, can significantly contribute to the development of these spots.

Close-up view of skin displaying melasma spots.

What Triggers Melasma?

Identifying what triggers melasma can help you manage this skin condition effectively. Here are some common factors that contribute to its development:

1. Sun Exposure

Ultraviolet (UV) rays are known for increasing melanin production and worsening existing dark patches on the skin. According to a study by the American Academy of Dermatology, almost 50% of melasma cases are triggered or aggravated by sun exposure. To protect yourself, implement sun protection strategies. Use broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30, wear wide-brimmed hats, and seek shade during peak sun hours. Additionally, consider using sunscreens with physical blockers like minerals of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Sunscreens in their most natural form (powder) are preferable, as chemically altered sunscreens (lotions) convert UV into heat, which can exacerbate melasma. I like Color Science and Brush On Block sunscreens. Both are mineral with minimal ingredients. Both are sold on Amazon.

Sunscreen tip: Reapplying sunscreen is the only way to be consistent. What do those numbers mean? Let's say you start burning 10 minutes in the sun without sunscreen. This means your skin has stopped protecting you after that 10 minutes so a SPF 30 allows you to stay in the sun 30 minutes longer when wearing a 30. So, you need to reapply your sunscreen every 40 minutes! 10 + 30 = 40 minutes. This is why I always wear a 50. I do start burning about 15 minutes without protection so I need to reapply in 65 minutes.

Do I even need to mention tanning beds? Tanning beds emit stronger UV rays than natural sunlight—fuel for melanin production. Clients should opt for spray tans instead, but make them aware that skin will be more sun-sensitive in the first 24 hours post-application. Our local spray tan lady, Kortnee Colbry, also develops her own solution called Tan On Me.

She gives very natural spray tans.

2. Hormonal Changes

Hormonal fluctuations play a significant role in the onset of melasma. For instance, women often experience this condition during pregnancy—a phenomenon referred to as the "mask of pregnancy." Technical term is chloasma. Topical vitamin C and diligent SPF use are safe and effective during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Those taking hormonal contraceptives may also see melasma appear or worsen, particularly when beginning or changing their birth control regimen.

I had melasma patches under both of my eyes with my first pregnancy. I did microdermabrasion early when it was fresh so it totally took it away. I do recommend waiting after your pregnancy. For some reason the longer it is on you the tougher it is to remove.

3. Genetics

A family history of melasma increases your likelihood of developing the condition. While genetics alone do not cause melasma, individuals may be more susceptible if they share similar environmental and lifestyle factors.

Eye-level view of a sunscreen bottle for skin protection.

4. Additional Factors

Besides the primary triggers, certain medications (like some antifungal agents and blood pressure drugs) can contribute to melasma. Stress is also a factor, as it is linked to hormonal changes that may affect skin appearance.

HEV Light (Blue Light)

Phones, tablets and screens emit High Energy Visible (HEV) light—a.k.a. blue light—which:

• Damages collagen

• Encourages pigmentation

• Disrupts sleep cycles

Using skin products that filters out blue light helps. Luxe Serum, Hydra Boost Toner, Luxe Potion and our Mineral Powder and Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 are perfect choices when your in front of your device.

How to Manage Melasma

While melasma can be challenging to deal with, several effective strategies exist for managing it and promoting a more even skin tone. Here’s how to take control:

1. Topical Treatments

Prescription creams containing hydroquinone (not my favorite), tretinoin, azelaic acid, vitamin A (retinol) or corticosteroids are often effective in lightening melasma patches. These treatments work by reducing melanin production and promoting cell turnover. It is best to consult a dermatologist before starting any new treatment to ensure it suits your skin type.

2. Chemical Peels

Chemical peels can greatly enhance skin texture and tone. These treatments involve using a solution to remove the outer layer of skin, exposing the fresher skin underneath. While multiple sessions may be necessary for optimal results, the improvement can be significant. Always seek a licensed professional to perform these peels for safety and effectiveness.

3. Laser Treatments

Laser therapy is another popular option for treating melasma. These treatments target areas of excess pigmentation without harming surrounding skin. Various laser types can break down melanin deposits, leading to a clearer complexion. Choose a qualified provider with experience in treating melasma to avoid potential aggravation of the condition. An undereducated technician could give someone hypopigmentation killing all the melanin making your skin have white spots. This is irreversible.

High angle view of a modern dermatological treatment room.

4. Microdermabrasion

This less intensive technique involves gently exfoliating the skin's outer layer using fine crystals. Microdermabrasion encourages new skin growth and may help reduce melasma's visibility over time. Although several sessions may be needed, it is a quick procedure with minimal downtime. This is my favorite method partnered with a peel. I can sort of whittle away certain new spots effectively.

5. Preventative Measures

Prevention is key in managing melasma. I recommend they follow the SunSmart “Slip, Slop, Slap, Seek and Slide” rules:

• Slip on protective clothing

• Slop on sunscreen

• Slap on a wide-brimmed hat

• Seek the shade

• Slide on UV-protective sunglasses

  
  

Pro tip: Clients should avoid metal-framed sunglasses—they reflect sunlight and sit right where melasma loves to strike.

Daily sunscreen use is vital in your skincare routine, even on cloudy days. Wearing protective clothing that shields your skin from UV rays and staying in the shade whenever possible will further help prevent melasma from worsening. I wear long sleeve lightweight breathable shirts during long walks in the summer for my sunscreen.

6. Embrace Your Natural Beauty

Lastly, it's essential to remember that melasma is a common skin condition experienced by many people. Embracing your unique skin, including its imperfections, can boost your confidence. Celebrate what sets you apart and remember that melasma does not define you. Our skin issues bother us and not others!

Wrapping Up

Lastly, clean eating! Internal inflammation stimulates melanin production. A clean diet, regular movement and calming practices like tai chi or yoga help reduce systemic inflammation and improve skin resilience.

Understanding melasma—its triggers, management options, and the importance of self-acceptance—can change your perspective about your skin. Though age spots may appear suddenly, know that there are various ways to manage and reduce their visibility. This isn't something that is curable. By being aware of your triggers and following a consistent skincare routine, you can confidently navigate melasma and continue to shine!

Stay beautiful, be hydrated and wear your sunscreen. ~ Genelle

Genelle Holub

Pro Makeup Artist

Certified Nutrition Esthetician

Founder of Face It Skin